Getting from one Scilly isle to another is an adventure in itself. Little open boats leave daily from the harbour at St Mary’s according to weather and tides – for us that’s part of the fun. Our ride to St Agnes was a bit choppy following the storm that had hammered us the night before, but the morning was beautiful despite the wind that hadn’t quite died down yet.
We walked straight up and over the island, past its famous and picturesque lighthouse, eager to get to the historic Troytown on the west side of the island in time to catch the sun at a good angle for photographs.
And after the photos, we walked, letting our footsteps mix and mingle with those of other visitors over the centuries. There is something breathtakingly energizing about hiking out to somewhere remote and rugged and walking a windy labyrinth overlooking the the spectacular sea.
With our research fresh in our minds, we could easily imagine the earlier writers visiting the site to make their own observations and notes. Probably constructed in the 1720’s by the son of the lighthouse keeper home on a visit, the labyrinth is still a popular attraction today – as is the ice cream stand at the nearby farm which takes its name from the labyrinth – Troytown Farm.
Not really wanting to linger on the windy west coast, we walked back across the island to the little causeway leading to the smaller island of Gugh. Only accessible at low tide, you cross a sandy bar to get to a wide beach at the top of which is spiralling little labyrinth that overlooks the Cove and the causeway, with St Agnes and its marvelous lighthouse in the distance.
And then it was back to St Mary’s for a dinner overlooking the harbour (with our B&B in the background).
To be continued…